For their AW25 collection, Paul Smith look to the other side of the lens, focusing on the personal style of some of the 20th century’s most influential photographers. Elegant tailoring fabrics and classic silhouettes are subverted through subtle pattern clashes, gently exaggerated proportions, and unexpected textures.
A lover of photography since childhood, Sir Paul has long drawn inspiration from the world of still images, and for his AW25 collection he celebrates every aspect of this creative world. The rich, inky palette is inspired by the liquid tones of Saul Leiter’s colour photography, while the slightly unkempt approach to tailored clothing nods to the personal uniforms of some of the 20th century’s most iconic photographers: David Bailey, Terence Donovan, and William Eggleston.
A focus for the season is the ‘Field Flower’ print, which is realised as a vivid photoprint on shirts and ties, as well as woven into jacquard knitwear. This print is adapted from an image by another photographer, whose name might not be as familiar as the aforementioned, but who has nevertheless had an enormous influence on Sir Paul: Harold B. Smith, Paul’s father, and founder of the Beeston Camera Club. Harold’s photographs are characterised by his eye for detail and irreverent sense of humour, qualities which Sir Paul very much inherited, and which have shaped his entire outlook. The ‘Field Flower’ motif returns elsewhere in the collection, in a darker, moodier version, printed onto statement eveningwear.
Traditional tailoring fabrics are employed in unexpected ways, with classic fare such as herringbone wool being laundered for a more lived-in texture. Subtly contrasting fabrics are positioned side by side, sometimes within the same garment. A tailored jacket which, at first glance, appears to be of uniform construction reveals an understated patchwork design up close. Houndstooth and Prince of Wales patterns are blown up to exaggerated sizes, and appear not only on clothing but on shoes and accessories too. It is a typically irreverent attitude which still preserves the fundamentals of tailored clothing.
In another instance of tradition and irreverence coming together, the AW25 collection also offers the first look at Paul Smith Loves Barbour, a new collaboration between two of the best-loved and most recognisable names in British fashion. Comprising reimagined versions of some of Barbour’s most iconic coats, alongside knitwear, accessories, and t-shirts, the range is inspired by livestock competitions and farm shows. Taking a playful approach to country classics, the collection will feature unusual shades of waxed cotton, patchwork constructions, and a recurring Friesian cow motif.
Paul Smith AW25 makes its debut at the company’s Paris headquarters on Wednesday 22nd January 2025. Sir Paul himself will guide an intimate audience through highlights of the range, bringing the collection to life through in-depth explorations of the season’s narrative and design ethos.
