Hermès unveiled its Fall-Winter 2025-2026 menswear collection during Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2025, presenting a vision of “disciplined informality” that blends sharp architectural lines with urban practicality. The show married architectural rigor with racetrack dynamism, resulting in a lineup praised for its sophisticated playfulness and technical mastery.
Key elements:
Silhouette philosophy: short coat volumes paired with both narrow and wide trousers, emphasizing “soft shoulders” and “sharp, vigorous lines” to create dynamic proportions.
Material story: a focus on enveloping outerwear like blanket-finished parkas and hooded designs that balance functionality with elegance.
Geometric inspiration: diagonals and architectural shapes reference equestrian heritage through modern urban lens, described as “the sketch of a new equestrian geometry”.
Equestrian Geometry Meets Urban Energy
The collection drew inspiration from jockey silks and horse racing culture, translating their vibrant energy into bold chevrons, triangles, and Art Deco-inspired patterns. This “new equestrian geometry” manifested in oversized turtlenecks with canary-yellow patchwork designs and shawl-collar jackets featuring graphic blue-and-white motifs. The collection’s palette transitioned from earthy browns and teals to electrifying tomato reds and lemon yellows, mirroring the racetrack’s chromatic intensity.
Silhouettes: Precision and Comfort
Short coats paired with wide/narrow trousers for dynamic proportions, mohair blanket coats and shearling-lined parkas offering winter warmth, slim cashmere suits stripped to essentials, avoiding bulk while enabling fluid movement.
Hermès reimagined outerwear as protective shelters, using fuzzy mohair, plush velvet, and supple leather to create garments that “envelop like a second skin”. Double-breasted suits featured inventive doubled collars, while knitwear balanced geometric flair with minimalist lines. Hermès delivered a winter wardrobe that’s both emotionally resonant and technically impeccable.
